The Coconut Wireless

So – long story, but here goes. I was planning on running 2-3 local races this year, since the tow to VIR is a bit much, and was going to focus on more seat time and the Runoffs at Road America in 2020. However, in 2017, I told myself that if they ever made it back to Indy, I would build an 88-91 CRX tub car that could run both GTL with a limited prep D15B7, and then swap top ends and run as a full prep FP car. As we know, 2021 is back to Indy, and, like many, I want a do-over. In order to do that, the current car has to go.

I'm asking $15,000 for the car as listed below, but there’s a few ways to go with this, especially if you’ve got a reasonably clean 88-91 CRX to offer as a partial trade. Cars with an SCCA legal cage and a logbook to the front of the line, please. Rolling chassis ok, any trim level. Please nothing that’s hacked up, crashed up, or bent. Also, I have some other motors listed, and the truck and trailer can be included if you need them.

Car can also be purchased as a roller - price dependent on what you want/don't want! I'm going to run the same engine package in the new car. Basically, I don't have the space for two cars, or I'd hang on to this chassis for a bit.

Note that there are a lot more pictures in the MotoIQ articles (link below), and I have many more I can provide if you want to look at specific things.


1st Gen CRX – originally built by Kirk Olson as a GT-5, on its third log book. Houseman full race body kit. While a tub car, it’s essentially fully framed. I added full frame rails to the back end to fit the IRS. You can see what was done in the pics.

Front suspension – 86-89 Integra knuckles, modified for double a-arm suspension. 86-89 Integra calipers and vented front rotors. Full rod-end/spherical bearing upper control arms, three mounting heights for the inner pivots so you can play with front roll center. Koni 3012 double adjustable coilovers, mounted to the upper arm so you don’t have to work around the axle shafts. Lower arms are rod end/spherical bearing inner pivots, uses factory 86-89 Integra radius arm ball joints, which bolt in to the lower arms, no press needed.

Rear suspension – Independent multi-link rear suspension system, utilizes composite (fiberglass reinforced nylon) transverse cantilever springs. This suspension system was the entire reason the car was purchased in the first place, as a showcase for this technology. While composite springs have been around for a few decades (eg: Chevy Corvette), composite automotive springs have all been made of thermoset materials, usually epoxy and fiberglass. The springs on this car use thermoplastic resin – I won’t get into the advantages of thermoplastics here (I work with composites for a living, and could go on for hours).

For more pics and entertainment, you can browse through all the links below. The MotoIQ articles (6 installments) go more in-depth on the original build. Both the spring design itself as well as the suspension design have been granted patents, and this is currently the ONLY motor vehicle in the world that has this kind of spring and suspension system. The springs are individually adjustable for ride height and rate. It works really well, especially on rougher tracks. Koni 30 series adjustable oval track shocks. Several different adjustments for roll center as well. I recently installed a 5-position cockpit adjustable blade style rear anti-sway bar. The suspension system also has a built-in roll-stiffening linkage (part of one of the patents, so it is unique as well), but I currently have the parts removed since I wanted to play with the adjustable bar. Easy to bolt it all back in, it will come with the car. Brakes utilize Wilwood Dynapro calipers, on 92-95 Honda Civic rear hubs and rotors.

This car is easy and fun to drive fast – if I keep it I’ll probably get a bit more aggressive with the suspension setup, but for now I need more seat time, and this setup suits me fine. – video from Pueblo Majors, 5/25/19

I have the original beam axle from the car that can be included if you want it – if you were to change back to the beam axle, this car would be allowed to run at 1895 lbs instead of the 1942 it currently sits at (IRS weight penalty).

Hydraulics – dual master/balance bar setup. Hydraulic master/slave for clutch, not a cable/hydraulic adapter system.

Engine – limited prep D15B7. 145+ whp/ 110+ ft-lbs torque (current dyno sheet with final numbers available). I only had an hour on the dyno, so there may be a little more left on the table. Get a professional tune and your smile might get bigger! Only one qualifying session and 7 laps of racing on this engine. These engines are a dime a dozen in every junkyard (1992-1995 Civic base model), so cores are easy to find. Technically, you can also use the block from a 1988-91 D15B2, since they are the same except for non-critical bosses. Plenty of those around, too.

  • 11:1 compression. Uses aftermarket D16A1 full floating pistons (PG6B), still readily available and inexpensive. I machine deeper valve reliefs on a mill for proper piston-valve clearance. Easy for any machine shop to duplicate. Bored 0.5mm oversize. I recommend only going 0.5mm oversize, as full 1.0mm thins the sleeves too much for my liking. Probably okay for an 11:1 engine, but I cracked a few sleeves when I ran this same engine at 1.0mm overbore in my 14:1 FP car back in the day. Block decked 0.015”
  • Forged 4340 H-beam connecting rods, ARP2000 rod bolts
  • Polished factory forged crankshaft
  • Custom crank scraper with Teflon wiper blade
  • 3 stage TDC dry sump oil system with oil cooler, oil temp never passed 210 F during race on 80 degree day
  • Custom Bisimoto spec’d cam, hard-welded and ground by Web Camshaft
  • Adjustable cam gear
  • Bisimoto valve springs and titanium retainers
  • SuperTech stainless valves, undercut stems, head shaved 0.030”
  • Knurled valve guides
  • AEM Infinity engine management system
  • Coil-on-plug sequential ignition
  • 48mm ITB system with 3d printed nylon elliptical profile air horns, optimized for maximum flow
  • Hall effect crank and cam position sensors (readily available, very common sensors)
  • Underdriven factory water pump, all aluminum Northern Radiator Scirocco dual pass cross-flow radiator. On an 80 degree day, coolant temp never passed 185 F during race
  • Aluminum underdrive alternator pulley


Driveline – Honda B18A/B LS transmission case

  • Evolution Motorsports D series engine to B series trans adapter plate with aluminum flywheel, uses any B-series clutch
  • Action Clutch Kevlar friction disc, currently has ACT pressure plate
  • Gear-X close ratio dog engagement gear set
  • 2.583/1.929/1.529/1.278/1.100 gears, 3.60 final,– A usable first gear, perfect for 40-50 mph rolling starts, and is usable for tight corners. Worked great at Pueblo for the turn 7 hairpin. 8500 rpm (where I’ve set the rev limiter), with a 20.8” tire diameter in 4th gear nets a theoretical 114.3 mph, in 5th gear 132.8 mph, which gives you 4 good gears for the shorter tracks and 5 for the big ones, or you can get a 4.0 final for 5 gears on the tighter circuits if you want those last few tenths.
  • Kaaz 1.5 way clutch-type LSD
  • 90-93 Integra intermediate shaft
  • Insane Shafts front drive axles. I use 90-95 Integra front hubs/and bearings, and I set this system up to use factory length 90-93 Integra axle lengths, so these are off-the-shelf items, readily available.


Wheels – All radial slicks have 4-6 heat cycles, still some life left in them. Rain tires used only in one wet session, excellent shape. I run S80/S100 front, S75 rear

6 Bogart 13 x 7

  • 2 with 215/530R13 S100 Hoosier radial slicks
  • 2 with 215/530R13 S80 Hoosier radial slicks
  • 2 with 215/530R13 S75 Hoosier radial slicks

2 Revolution 13 x 7, 215/530R13 S75 Hoosier radial slicks
4 factory steel wheels, 13 x 5.5” with 20.5 x 7.0R13 Hoosier radial rains

Miscellaneous - the following are add-ons/negotiable. Not included in price:
EW motor
I have the EW 1488 3 valve motor that came with the car. I haven’t taken it apart, except for removing the intake, but the bottom end had been recently looked before I bought the car and rod bearings replaced as preventive maintenance even though they looked fine. The head, intake, and cam came from Preban Kristensen in Canada. He designed and built the intake manifold and ported the head. I don't know any specs on the cam, but he may remember it. His # is 519-472-1983. I believe there are hardened caps on the valve stems. Rods are stock with ARP bolts. Pistons are believed to be JE, compression unknown but probably 13:1 or more based on the HP numbers. Rings are Total Seal. Crank is stock, it may still have Honda main bearings, Mahle rod bearings. 0.002” clearance on rods & mains. Set up for dry sump, includes pan, pump not included. ITB setup from a 2001 Suzuki GSXR 600. Dyno sheet shows 135 hp and 105 torque with the 24mm SIR, can run a 25mm SIR with 125 lbs added. Have both the 24mm and 25mm SIRs as well as the SDS fuel injection computer and Electromotive HPV-1 ignition system that came with it. Flywheel and clutch of unknown origin, included.


B18 LS motor
I also have the B18A/B (LS motor) I originally ran in the car. I was going to install the hotter BC0022 cams and run this uncorked on E85 in a street car, but if I’m building another GTL, this motor needs to go, too. I have to dig up the dyno charts, but I think this dyno’d at 132 hp/128 torque. From what I understand, stock cams may make more power since the SIR chokes these big motors down at about 6200 rpm. I never spent much time tuning and tweaking this motor, as it was built for getting me up and running in a bulletproof kind of way.

  • P73 full floating pistons, shaved head, ~14:1 final compression
  • Mild porting – bowls cleaned, chambers unshrouded a bit, SSR widened slightly but radius unchanged
  • Brian Crower valvesprings, retainers, and connecting rods
  • Brian Crower 62403 Stage 2 cams (currently installed), have stock cams and Crower BC0022 2 cams (slightly more lift/duration) as well
  • Stock intake/throttle body
  • 22.5 mm Raetech SIR with hose ends, as well as an optimized 3d printed nylon bellmouth
  • Currently set up for dry-sump, pump not included but pan is. Pan could use a cleanup and the welding touched up – it was a bit weepy at the seams and sealed with silicone. Since this motor would never see the high side of 7000 rpm, I’d put a stock oil pump back on it with a baffled pan and make life easier. I think I even have a baffle kit, if I can find it it’s included.


Cargo Craft 18ft V-nose trailer-
Bought new in late 2016, in excellent condition. Tandem 3500 lb axles, electric brakes, spare tire. Probably less than 10,000 miles on it. Tires are excellent, E-track installed, shelves built into nose. Carries the car, tires, tools, fuel, gear, and my pit bike. I don’t need to sell this, but if it helps the car sell, I’ll make a package deal.

1989 Chevy K2500-
4wd, shortbed, extended cab Scottsdale model. 5.7L (350) V-8 automatic. Some bumps and bruises, a few small rust spots, but this truck drives very quiet and solid. Only 131k on the clock. I’ve towed the car round trip from Denver to Houston, St. Louis, Mid-Ohio, Seattle, and the local tracks since 2016. The only mechanical problem I ever had was a leaky exhaust donut that failed on the way to Indy. Fixed that in an AutoZone parking lot and was back on my way. New radiator in 2017, new tires in 2018. Could use a headliner, and needs an AC compressor and AC low pressure switch. It won’t tow at the speed limit over the big hills, but it always gets me there. Has a nice bed cap, with a bed liner and bed mat. Nothing fancy but it gets the job done. I don’t need to sell this, either, but if somebody needs the whole package of car, truck, and trailer, well, then I guess I’ll upgrade!


Jonathan Spiegel

cell (909) 844-5830